Apples, sea food and blue cheese… Chef Barry Sun of Volpe Nera talks ingredients, food memories and indulgence with us in this month’s edition of Behind The Pass.
“I’m a huge fan of blue cheese, as you can smell just by opening my fridge at home!”
Apples – when I was a child I had my own apple tree and would always pick an apple from the tree to eat. I love the flavour and the acidity, I could eat apples all day long.
I have them in a few of the dishes on our current menu – an apple and horseradish sauce with my Iberico pork and olive croquettes, and on the dessert menu in a Granny Smith sponge with Calvados ice-cream.
My Côte de Boeuf is always a really popular dish both on the menu in the restaurant and, also, at home with my family. We love it so much I have to cook it for dinner on Christmas day – my six-year-old daughter would eat one all to herself if we allowed her!
Trick of The Trade
Getting the right balance of acid to lift a dish. Whether it’s lemon, vinegar or a different acid, it can really help to elevate a dish and bring out the flavours.
I think there’s a time and a place for everything, trends come and go. One minute it’s doughnuts, at the moment there’s a lot of burger places.
Trend Worth Noting
Neighbourhood restaurants. You used to have to go into the city to get a really nice meal, but now there are some fantastic restaurants popping up in the suburbs, and it’s brilliant for people to have a restaurant serving delicious food on their doorstep.
It has to be blue cheese – I’m a huge fan of blue cheese, as you can smell just by opening my fridge at home!
I had a fantastic meal in Liath a couple of months ago. Every ingredient on each plate was there for a reason, and worked perfectly.
My father was a fisherman, so I remember eating amazing, fresh seafood every single day, and I’ve loved and respected fish and seafood so much since. I love everything from the sea.
Utensil of Choice
Paco-jet for making ice-cream.
Pan-fried jellyfish with pork and lots of onions – my Mum used to cook this a lot when we were growing up and when my Dad managed to catch a jellyfish.
Wish I’d Known…
More English maybe.
I was late realising I wanted to be a Chef, I worked as a Kitchen Porter when I first came to Ireland and realised then that I loved the kitchen and cooking and worked my way up, so I came to cheffing accidentally. If I’d realised as a kid or teenager, I would have liked to go to cookery school.
Table For Two
Aimsir is definitely a restaurant that’s on our wish-list, I’d love to spend an evening there with Jo-Jo.
Dish to Celebrate Chinese New Year (on Jan 25th this year)
We always make dumplings to celebrate Chinese New Year, mostly pork and prawns.
22 Newtown Park,
Photo: Aoife Herrity